Tuesday, December 11, 2007

El Potrero Chico.

We've been in Mexico for a bit over 2 weeks now. The climbing is HUGE limestone walls that go on for miles. We had hopes of climbing a 23 pitch route called Time Wave Zero at some point in our stay here and after climbing a few long moderate routes and a "forced" rest day, we did it on the thrid day we were here. It was an early morning (4 am) start and it was foggy at the beginning of the day, but it cleared up and got hot and sunny. We probably would have liked it to stay a little cloudier, but the movement of the clouds coming south into the canyon made for some incredible pictures. This was the longest climb that I have ever done and we gained 2100 ft of elevation. It only took us about 6 hours to climb to the summit because we linked pitches and even simul climbed a little. The day after we did Time Wave Dave Carmona, Tom Kraner, and Nate Godfrey flew in to meet us. We picked them up from the airport and after a bit of a confusing departure (you have to pay for parking inside the airport before you leave) we made it back to the Potrero for dinner at Checo's. The guys rented a Casita for the week, so we stayed in the Rialta in their driveway. The casita was great (by Mexican and our stardards) with a flush toilet uniquely painted purple, a full kitchen, electricity, and three beds for the guys. All five of us got on a multipitch climb called Space Boyz the first day that they were able to climb and we made it tot he 7th of the 11 pitches before we decided to call it a day. It was a good intro to see where everyone's level of climbing was and also have some social time. I had the pleasure of my first ever 5.11d onsight (which Nate hung the draws on for me) on the climb called Don Quijote. Nate was the super star rope gun onsighting 12a Fear of Flying and then doing two more 12s after that. Jay and Dave went to try their hand at Time Wave Zero (a second time for Jay), but unfortunately Jay's shoes fell off his harness. They ended up doing Estrellita that day instead (14 pitches). My friend Marlin came into town a few days after the other guys arrived which made us an even number, and one more to drink the wine, tequila, y cerveza. It was quite the party while the guys were here, and I still feel like I am recovering. Marlin just took off this morning and I have three blood blisters on the tips of my fingers. :(

So, Potrero is an interesting place. It could easily be compared to Miguel's in that there are a lot of climbers hanging out and camping, but there are multiple different campgrounds to choose from ranging from $3-$5 per night per person. Some of the campgrounds have their own restaurant and even spanish classes and climbing shools, while others don't have much of anything. Most do have community kitchens and restrooms with hot showers. Jay and I prefer a small campground right at the edge of the climbing area called Azucenas mainly for the privacy and the solo shower/toilet/sink.

Some of the things I've climbed thus are: Treasure of the Sierra Madre (7), Black Cat Bone (9), Time Wave Zero (23), Space Boyz (7 of 11), Snot Girlz (7), Don Quijote (1), Bad Cop No Donut (1), Flying Scorpion (1), Mugre Mugre (1), XL Puff Sneakers (1), Mr Fluffer's Wild Ride (1), Aguja Celo Rey (2), and Off the Notch (1), Marklar Man (1), Marklar (1), and Fear of Flying (1). I'm onsighting almost all 10's now and most 11's which is harder than I've ever climbed!!

A few things I've learned without taking a single spanish class:

Caguama-- large (approx 32 oz) beer that are bought at a "deposito" on the way back from climbing and continue to be consumed throughout the evening. You get 7 pesos back when you retun the bottle.

Alacron-- spanish for scorpion, which stung me the first night we got to the Cerro Gordo Casita and then a few days later was shot in a film container of Tequila by Jay.

Brutus-- a pack dog at heart who went on a three hour walk about and nearly caused me to have a heart attack.

Sombra-- shade, what we like to climb in.

3 Comments:

Blogger Rene' Ardesch said...

Hey Torey, Wishing you guys the best.....alls well in Exeter....Got my surgery and all went well no problems at all!! I'm recovering and hoping for Happy Holidays for us all!!!! Rene'

December 11, 2007 at 11:21 PM  
Blogger Daniel and Bekah Moor said...

Whew, nice report. Glad to hear of the hard climbing going on. I hope that you are doing well. Let us know when you are back in town!

December 12, 2007 at 12:30 PM  
Blogger suez said...

Torey, ugh, a scorpion! How painful was that sting? Good for Jay, hope the beast didn't cause any digestive upset.
Did the poison ivy ever heal?
Looking forward to hearing your voice. love, Mom

December 15, 2007 at 8:41 AM  

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